A quiet London Fashion Week?
Feb 27, 2025, 05:30 IST
At the event’s kickoff, the British Fashion Council’s outgoing CEO Caroline Rush addressed some of those difficulties in a speech that concluded her 16-year tenure. “London Fashion Week is about making meaningful connections… and cementing (designers’) place on the global stage,” she said. “These are challenging times, but this community is resilient — and as someone who has been there for a little while, I can tell you from experience that creativity is heightened even further when businesses face adversity.
London Fashion Week (LFW) for Autumn/Winter 2025, held from February 20 to 24, was notably quieter this season, with several prominent designers opting out of the traditional runway format. Brands like JW Anderson, Molly Goddard, and Nensi Dojaka were absent from the schedule, reflecting a shift among independent designers to reassess the value and investment required for staging shows. Factors such as rising production costs, the impacts of Brexit, and the recent closure of luxury retailer Matches Fashion have contributed to this trend.
Despite these challenges, LFW showcased resilience and creativity. Burberry's show at Tate Britain was a highlight, featuring British actors like Richard E. Grant and Lesley Manville on the runway. Creative director Daniel Lee drew inspiration from British country house aesthetics, presenting a collection rich in outerwear and heritage patterns.
Emerging designers embraced alternative presentation formats to navigate financial and logistical constraints. For instance, Tolu Coker transformed her showcase into an immersive atelier experience, highlighting the creative process and emphasizing sustainability. Similarly, Labrum London hosted a concert at Abbey Road Studios, blending fashion with music to celebrate multicultural influences.
The street style during LFW reflected a shift towards statement footwear, with attendees opting for bold choices like bedazzled Crocs and deconstructed sneakers. This trend marked a departure from the previous season's focus on practicality and comfort.
In summary, while LFW Autumn/Winter 2025 faced a subdued atmosphere due to industry challenges, it remained a testament to the adaptability and innovative spirit of the British fashion scene.